Bonsai Garden Forums / BONSAI / Bonsai Techniques

bonsai tools

Jinny — Mon, 03 Mar 2008 18:37:50 GMT

Hello

Im new here...only got my bonsai's a few days ago and i'm looking for tools for pruning etc......seen that many tools in different sizes so totally confused me...i will have to get my tools online...been to every shop in my home town not found 1 tool :( so can some 1 point me in the right directio please....oh when is the best time for re-pottng and root pruning..

Thanks

Jinny

multiple air-layers

nige — Sat, 05 Apr 2008 19:23:42 GMT

I bought a southern beech(Nothofagus antartica) today that is really bushy and quite a bit taller than I would want so I was thinking about doing some air-layering to take off the excess growth before I cut it back to the basic structure.

Does anyone know if it is possible to do multiple air-layers on the same trunk/ branch simultaneously?

Bonsai Soil

Mr Miyagi — Tue, 16 Sep 2008 00:52:19 GMT

Hello all:D

Just a quick soil question really,been using soil from a local bonsai nursery for years now,it was peat based with loam/perlite etc.trees did ok in it however after a short space of time it would turn to mush.

This nursery has since closed down.So to get pre mixed soil now id have to travel 40 odd miles to a bonsai nursery.or order online with expensive p&p.

so from now on im going to mix my own and just wondered if this mix would be ok for everything but pines etc.

Akadma or TCL-Kiryu or pumice-sterilised pine bark-and abit of levington bonsai compost.ill work out the mix per tree later,just wanted to no if the items above are ok.
abit more info that might help.i live in cornwall,trees get water evenings etc when i get home from work.oh and it rains almost everyday where i live.
:P
ps while picking up all my new soil items i ended up with another tree:)
[URL=http://img230.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img3910yz8.jpg][IMG]http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/1948/img3910yz8.th.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://img141.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img3913ow6.jpg][IMG]http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/1455/img3913ow6.th.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Timely tasks

Stymie — Sun, 02 Nov 2008 14:12:19 GMT

I hope that everyone is enjoying the local autumn colours.

At this time or even a little earlier, I remove moss from the surface of my bonsai medium so as not to provide a home for unwelcome creepie crawlies or disease. I've even done a bit of re-potting of trees which have already lost their leaves. It's a good time to review the medium needs and stock up with the necessary mixes and any pots which will be required. Nature is taking care of the watering outside and my delicate Serissa and figs have been brought under cover for the winter. Early last month was when I applied my second dose of epsom salts to everything to counteract any shortage of Magnesium which may have been caused by all the water passing through the mediums and washing it away. My last three feeds of the year were zero nitrates formula to harden everything off. I shall not need to fertilize any more until March 09. A lot of you will know that I'm very thrifty with my feeds, subscribing to the theory that nitrates in particular will increase the size of both leaves and internodal distances. Both of which are desired to be small. :laugh: The last trims of the year have just about ended and the only things still to do will be a bit of deadwood refinement and removal of any wire which has fulfilled it's purpose.

What are you all doing at this part of the year? Our club, SYBS, will be holding the AGM this month followed by an auction of bonsai related items, which is always popular and tends to be a buyer's market. I'll be unloading a few more trees and some surprise items.

Don't just sit there - Talk to us. ;) =Don.

Re-using bonsai soil medium?

Surrey John — Sun, 10 Feb 2008 16:14:49 GMT

OK everyone, here's my first 'proper' BG post, and it's about re-using bonsai soil. I've just started re-potting some of my little trees - just done 3-4 today, replaced the soil for each, and ended up with a pile of old soil out of the pots. I'm really pleased to report that all three trees - a small Corylus, my small Quercus (which I have now cut right down - photo follows soon I hope), and my I-don't-ever-know-what -to-do-with-it-Lonicera, each had developed fantastic fibrous root systems. I take this to be a main effect of using the TCL:HG:NPC mix we have all been discussing for the past 1-2 years.

Now, my question is - the old compost, which came out of the pots - why shouldn't I sieve it and use it again? The pro is obvious - no waste, less expense, but what are the cons, if any? Does anyone re-cycle soil at all? :cool: SJ.

Cedrus Libani

RoyH — Wed, 12 May 2010 14:21:02 GMT

here's a few pics of a Cedrus Libani, which i picked up from my local garden center for £34.95.

Its now in a first stage of styling & i will leave it like this for the time being.

large yamadori juniper

RoyH — Tue, 09 Feb 2010 18:50:48 GMT

i had chance to wrok on this huge juniper today, which would have gone to the tip. its got a long way to go, but at least its not in a skip!

an idea of scale

lots of major carving to do, but i'm jiggered now. lets hope it survives.

Root over rock.

Stymie — Wed, 04 Nov 2009 22:17:06 GMT

How to create a root over rock bonsai tree.

A young tree which has not yet produced lignified inflexible roots can be encouraged to cling to a rock in the following manner.

Select a stone that is perhaps a little deeper than the vision originally suggests because some of it will remain below the potting medium surface.. I have found tufa rock less than ideal because it will disintegrate over time, due to the effects of rain and frost. A textured rock with grooves running down over it would be ideal.

At re-potting time, select a container which will accommodate the rock completely. A tall plastic plant pot is suitable in view of what follows.

Wet the rock thoroughly and drape the immature roots over it, following any furrows or grain in the rock. Some of the roots should reach beyond the base. Secure them by binding firmly (not too tight) with previously soaked raffia which will rot away eventually when its function has served. Anything else might disturb the roots when being removed later. Put a layer of free- draining medium in the base of the container and set the tree bearing rock upon it. The spaces between rock and container wall are then filled gently with more medium until the whole rock and up to the original soil surface of the tree are covered. Water thoroughly and top up the medium to fill any space left by settlement.. Do not feed for three weeks by which time it is hoped that some bud burst or growth will be seen. Then resume your normal feeding and watering care as before. Trimming of the parts above the surface may take place during the growing period but don’t disturb the roots during that year.

In the following spring as growth again starts, cut away a section of the plastic container at the top and remove a similar depth of medium to expose the higher roots. A half inch might be right dependant on the size of the tree. This may be repeated at intervals during the next two growing seasons until most of the rock with the clinging roots is exposed.. There will be feeder roots around the bottom of the rock and underneath it in the layer of medium put below it at the start of the operation. By this time it will probably be appropriate to re-pot into a suitable bonsai pot, treating the rock and tree as one individual entity and allowing the feeder roots to spread laterally into the shallow but wider container. The roots by now will be holding the rock firmly and have assumed a more mature appearance imitating the colour and texture of the trunk bark.

This may seem to be a long drawn-out procedure but bear in mind that the tree parts above ground will have been continuously monitored and trained as any other bonsai.

Any inquisitive viewer can be regaled with the trees story and the object of doing this.

Have fun with this and you will be rewarded with a unique root over rock style bonsai.

Evergreen and deciduous varieties are equally treated, perhaps increasing the amount of grit in the medium for Pines and Juniper types.

Basic bonsai care

Stymie — Mon, 17 Mar 2008 12:36:48 GMT

Hints on the care of your Bonsai

During the growing season (April to September inclusive in the northern hemisphere antipodeans please add or subtract six months) inspect the compost daily and water as needed. This will be a daily need when the weather is really warm. For the rest of the year, just make sure that it doesn’t dry out completely. A fortnightly liquid feed at around half strength is beneficial when there is actual growth taking place.
If your tree has been styled already, it is necessary to trim new growth to keep the style and shape from getting out of hand. This can be achieved by allowing the formation of around five new leaves or buds to develop and then trim back to just above the second or first new bud. This choice allows you to select the one which points outwards or downwards for new extension which will create a better shape each time you do it.

In spring, just as the first signs of buds swelling are seen, it is usual to re-pot your tree. Not, as is the usual practice with potted plants, into a larger container but back into the same one with fresh compost. This is the process which dwarfs the tree and makes it look like a mature specimen in miniature. To make room for the new compost it is usual to cut away some of the roots. Up to one third is quite safe, taking away any coarse or tap roots which may have formed. The fine fibrous roots are the ones which do the feeding anyway. The only function of the long coarse ones is to anchor the tree in the ground. It is not considered adviseable to prune the roots of Larch after new green growth has appeared so they should be the first specie on the list for a re-pot. If they start growing before one starts re-potting, it is best to leave them for the following late winter.
A useful mixture for compost, which should always be free draining is equal parts by volume (not weight) of John Innes no.2, sieved composted bark and coarse grit. There are many personal ideas about compost mixes but you’ll not go wrong with the above. This may be modified for specific needs, for instance, by increasing the portion of grit for pine or increasing the bark and reducing the John Innes for lime intolerant species.
There is no such thing as an ‘indoor’ tree and your’s should spend most of it’s time outside. The occasional time indoors (no more than three days) is nice if you wish to show it off to visitors. The exceptions being those trees from warm climes which may need protection from low temperatures.

It is helpful to mention at this point that evergreen, needle bearing trees are better left until May for re-potting. They may be done at any time during the comparatively inactive cold months, as some of us, with a lot of trees to look after, have to spread out this time consuming activity. Pruning of these can differ according to species so ask here if in need of guidance.

Hornbeam air-layer to pot

Stymie — Sun, 10 Feb 2008 14:09:34 GMT

I managed to salvage a plastic container of ample proportions and went to work on this.

[img]http://forums.bonsaigarden.net/Attachment131.aspx[/img]

Geranium

Stymie — Fri, 06 Mar 2009 22:13:14 GMT

I see that you have a zonal Pellargonium trained as bonsai Kath. How and where do you over-winter it? =Don

Styling

Stymie — Wed, 16 Apr 2008 18:45:55 GMT

I suppose this is how the wild semi-cascades start.

Multiple plantings

Stymie — Mon, 24 Mar 2008 14:47:25 GMT

Here's a sketchy outline in respect of Groups or Forests.

CONTAINERS.

Large ceramic pots can be expensive so consider whether a slab of stone or slate would be appropriate. Drainage holes are not mandatory in slabs unless there are hollows, which will hold water to cause root rot. Small holes for anchorage wires are useful but wire can be glued in place. The absence of walls on slabs will allow excess water to drain over the edges. If you wish to display your group away from home, keep the size down to something that you can lift without personal injury.

PLANTING MEDIUM.

This needs to be no different to your usual bonsai mix but sometimes a clay/peat mix is used to hold the perimeter in place if on a slab.

SPECIES.

Any material suitable for bonsai can be used. The majority of people will use only one species in a group planting but mixes with space between varieties work reasonably well. Even mixes of needle bearing trees and broadleaf have been used.

ACCESSORIES.

Rock, accent plants and moss are useful, as are mounded soil levels to form an undulating landscape. Ceramic figures of animals, people and buildings are seldom used outside of China but this is a matter for the individual’s preference and not a rule of thumb.

NUMBER OF TREES.

It is more likely to achieve a harmonious design if an odd number is used up to a total of nine. Over and above that total, it is not as important.

GENERAL POSITIONING.

This is simplified if trees of varying height, thickness and age are gathered together before starting. It is useful to have the largest one at about a third of the way along from one side and slightly behind a middle line. The next largest will be placed near to the first one or well away if it is to be the focal point of a secondary grouping. Experiment with placing on/in the container, bearing in mind that larger, thicker trees look nearer and smaller, thinner ones should be further behind affording a feeling of depth and distance. It is usual, particularly with smaller numbers, to ensure that three or more trees don’t end up in a straight line. This would never occur in nature and after all, we’re not planting a hedge. A water-course can be suggested by a trickle of sand. Trees with a side comparatively free of branches can be cuddled up together as shading one another would probably cause this naturally. Outside members of a group generally lean outwards away from the others as if reaching for light. There are no rules as to positioning but these suggestions will ensure a more natural design. An important point, space toward the front and/or side of the container, covered with sand or moss, helps the open landscape effect and the natural perspective. A mound or hummock helps to emphasize the major tree or group.

I have purposely refrained from including a planting plan, as I believe that the trees themselves will suggest an arrangement. The eventual plan has to be a balance between what the trees tell you and the personality of the planter. Go ahead, have a go at this. Individual plants can be moved or replaced even years afterward. Very often another arrangement is visualised at re-potting time. Most important of all, have fun.

Thoughts on SCALE control

Stymie — Sun, 23 Mar 2008 12:10:55 GMT

ORGANIC SCALE CONTROL

Scales are small sap-sucking insects that often go unnoticed by the gardener, but they can do damage out of all proportion to their size. Common scales include black scale, pink wax scale, cottonycushion scale, San Jose scale, soft brown scale, red scale and white louse scale. Scale tend to have small, round shells and are often found along the veins of leaves and the stems of plants. They look like small bumps and can be mistaken for part of the plant, as adults do not move.

Eggs are laid under the scale shell and immature 'crawlers' emerge. Crawlers can be moved around by wind, by ants, or by hitching a ride on a bird's leg. Scale in large numbers cause leaf yellowing, leaf drop and dieback of twigs and limbs. In very large numbers red scale can seriously damage or kill young citrus trees. Some scales secrete large amounts of 'honeydew', for example in a eucalyptus forest this can sometimes be seen as a gentle sticky rain. The honeydew causes problems by sticking to the lower leaves where it is fed on by a black fungus called 'sooty mould'. This makes a plant look unattractive and interferes with photosynthesis. Honeydew also attracts ants, which feed on it. The ants can 'farm' the scale, protecting it from predators.

BIOLOGICAL CONTROLS

Enhancing the environment for the natural predators of scale is a long-term strategy with the benefits increasing over time. Natural enemies of scale include ladybeetles, lacewings, spiders and tiny parasitoid wasps. Many beneficial insects that feed on garden pests need nectar and pollen for food during part of their lifecycle. Growing a year-round supply of suitable flowers will maintain beneficial insect populations throughout the year. Small insect-eating birds are also helpful in controlling scale; attract them by providing safe nest sites and a constant supply of water. Try to keep any birds visiting your garden safe from cats.

PHYSICAL AND CULTURAL CONTROLS

The first step is always to control any ants, as without their protection the abundance of natural enemies in an organic garden will usually be able to keep scales under control. Keep ants out of your trees by banding the trunks with sticky barriers or grease bands. Prune any low branches that are touching the ground and make sure tall stems of grass aren't providing an alternative route for the ants.

On indoor plants small colonies of scale can be rubbed off by hand, wear garden gloves and dip a toothbrush or a cotton bud in a soap solution. In the garden very heavily infested twigs can be pruned off, dropped into a bucket of soapy water, then composted or mulched.

LEAST TOXIC CHEMICAL CONTROLS

The best time to control scales is when the crawlers have recently emerged, as they are more vulnerable to organic sprays than the adults with their thick shells. Correctly identifying the scale will help you to time this exactly but mid-summer is common. Frenetic ant activity can indicate scale-hatching periods.

Insecticidal soap sprays such as Natrasoap work by blocking the breathing pores and dissolving the scales outer covering so they dehydrate and die. Commercial soap sprays are based on potassium and will not harm beneficial insects and have a very low toxicity to people or pets. Oil sprays such as Pest Oil kill all stages of scale insects by suffocation. It has a low impact on beneficial insects.

If you plan to spray, wait for settled weather with little wind and no rain. Spray in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid burning the leaves and to reduce the impact on beneficial insects

Wettable sulphur or lime sulphur can be sprayed in winter to control white louse scale on citrus.

Oils kill all stages of scale insects by suffocation, which is a physical impact rather than a pesticidal action. It has a low impact on beneficial insects. A big advantage of this new generation Pest Oil is the low application rate at 5ml to a litre, so the product goes a long way. Advances in oil technology mean that this oil can be used all year round without damage to plants, up to a temperature of 35ºC. Pest Oil will control: red, white wax, pink wax, black, soft brown, grapevine, San Jose & oyster shell scale; bryobia mite eggs, European red mite eggs, two-spotted spider mite, aphids, white fly & mealy bugs. Pest Oil is the first registered non-toxic control for citrus leafminer; it works by forming a protective film on immature leaves, which the adult leafminer moths avoid.

scaring

Jinny — Wed, 12 Mar 2008 15:12:29 GMT

Hello can anything be done for scaring on trees(fukien tea) got some wound sealent and thought i'd do the tree...anyway came across top of the tree just chopped off and nothing put on( i think) and load of (the only word i can think of)knots on the trunk.

i think whoever did this shoud change thier profession

cuttings from jade money

Jinny — Tue, 11 Mar 2008 14:55:52 GMT

Hello

Just got a cutting from a nice Jade money plant(was mine about 10 years ago).got 2 nice stem with leaves and loads of leaves dipped them in rooting powder then into bonsai soil...I don't know if it will work...but you don't learn if you don't try

i managed

Jinny — Mon, 10 Mar 2008 19:09:13 GMT

hi i managed to repot after moaning this morning my stuff hadn't arrived lol

before picture

After picture

Think it went ok

Jinny

Air layering a hawthorn

daryl — Sat, 09 Feb 2008 19:13:00 GMT

Hello everyone

I'd like some advice please about air layering a hawthorn as this is my first attempt. The parent tree is about 6' high at the bottom of the garden. A few months ago (October) I did an air layer about 4' up from the ground where the trunk is about 3/4 " thick. I cut away an inch wide band of bark down to the cambium layer (I think) and then used a split flower pot to hold wet sphagnum up to the cut. The outside was then wrapped in clingfilm to keep everything in place. I have checked a couple of times just to ensure that the moss is still wet but apart from that I haven't looked at all.

Today I decided to take away the moss and look for roots as the tree above and below the cut is forming buds but there was nothing to be seen. Am I being impatient or do I need to do something else? I thought that as there are signs of growth above it that something must be happening but apparently not! Any suggestions?

Daryl

drastic sycamore chop back

Surrey John — Sat, 16 Feb 2008 23:54:42 GMT

As they say in the House of Commons, "in another place", I posted a thread about my daughter Amy's sycamore which she planted when she was two and which is still alive in its pot after about 28 years and I have been trying to bonsai it over the past 5. I finally decided, sometime last autumn, to chop it right back to a stump, and let this produce fresh buds, aiming at a broom style.

I'm just about ready to givitago now, but need to check two things:

1) When I saw the trunk off, will it be better done with a 'V' cross section or sould I saw straight across?

2) Should I seal the cut? Will sealant inhibit the production of buds, or what?

I'd be grateful for any words of wisdom on either if these before I make the fateful incision. Sorry i have no pic at present - it's on a disc somewhere. If I can find it I'll post it.

:) SJ

Watering

Stymie — Sun, 03 Feb 2008 19:00:01 GMT

WATERING

I have stated ad nauseum that sufficient water should be added to the planting medium of a potted plant/tree to maintain a just moist consistency. Neither too wet nor too dry. This is not the full picture of watering requirements.
Water is needed for the metabolism of a plant to continue to work. Water pressure in the plant system is necessary for it to hold its leaves up without drooping. It always moves toward the highest concentration of salt so if the planting medium contains more salt than the top of the plant, water will be drawn downwards instead of up and the plant will probably expire.
Photosynthesis in the leaves converts carbon dioxide and water into sugar and oxygen. Water then, is again necessary for that procedure to take place.
As the weather becomes warmer, the leaves transpire (their equivalent of sweating) to keep the plant cool, making a larger amount of water necessary and this has to be taken into account.
Ideally the water should contain little or no salt and have a pH value of something between 6 and 7.5.
Water direct from the tap has a chlorine content which can be reduced by drawing the mains water and allowing it to stand for a time, when most of this will be released into the atmosphere. The standing water will also assume the same temperature as the air and will benefit from being close to the plants/trees for which it is intended.
Pond and well water can often have concentrations of salt in it and should only be used if tested and found suitable.
Rain-water appears to be the best for our purpose if it is collected and stored out of contact with contaminants. It is usually almost salt and calcium free and very slightly acidic. It is nearly mandatory for Rhododendrons, Camellias and Gardenias.
If you grow Hornbeam, Hazel, Hawthorn, Beech, Spruce, Yew or Cherry be particularly careful about avoiding salt.
A modicum of lime is welcomed by Euonymus, Sabina juniper, Apple and pear, Blackthorn, Oak, Mountain ash and Yew.
Watering through a fine rose gives a more natural application and is less likely to wash medium out of the pot or cause puddling. Leaves may also be wet in this way but not if watering last thing before nightfall when less evaporation takes place. Moisture remaining on the leaves overnight or for a long time can result in fungus growth.
Only if the root ball has dried out completely, is it sometimes necessary to dunk the pot completely in water until all bubbles cease to rise. Peat based mixes are sometimes difficult to re-wet and may need this and even a spot of detergent added for particularly moisture resistant mixes. After being allowed to drain, subsequent watering is best continued from above in the normal way. The passage of moisture from top to bottom of the medium draws air in behind it. Air being necessary for the health of the roots too.
If I have missed anything important out, tell me and I will add it to these ramblings.

Practical styling instruction

Stymie — Sat, 09 Feb 2008 21:00:44 GMT

We're indebted to Simon for this link. Talk about clip and grow. It takes the waiting out of bonsai and helps you to make styling decisions.

http://experimentalgameplay.com/cm/g/472/bonsai.swf

Avago- I can't leave it alone.

Immediate change of growth direction.

Stymie — Fri, 01 Feb 2008 22:01:46 GMT

DRASTIC CHANGE OF GROWTH DIRECTION

Taking a wedge of material out of a wrongly aligned branch or trunk is a very dramatic way of redirecting an otherwise stiffly lignified part of a tree.

It is probably much more likely to be successful in inexperienced hands than free grafting procedures because a lifeline of undamaged bark can be left to nourish the site. I did it twice in successive years without killing the subject, which was a Cedrus atlantica that had previously been trained into a question mark shape in my inexperienced earlier years. If the operation is carried out in the vicinity of a growth bud, that would probably help the flow of nutrients as well although I have no evidence to support this.

Using a very sharp saw with tiny teeth that cuts on the pull stroke, I cut into the site where the redirection was to take place, on the outside of the undesired bend, stopping just over three-quarters of the way through . Another cut was made above the first one, angled down to join up with the deepest part of the first cut. The distance between the open ends of the two cuts is dependant on the degree of direction change required and I would consider that it does not make much difference to the probable success of the operation. The open ends of the resultant gap were then closed together and held with a smear of superglue on the heartwood only. The glue must not come into contact with the cambium -the lifelines as it were. I made sure that the cambium layers on each side of the gap came into contact with each other. There must be no further movement between the two sides and I bound a splint made of two pieces of thick wire across the wound, leaving the middle bit open until it had been smeared with Lac Balsam to seal it.

A second pair of hands to hold it together would have been useful but I managed. I have been told that grafting wax would have been the best choice here but I had none and did have the Lac Balsam to hand. The binding [with raffia] was then continued over the entire site in three layers and held in place with a normal spiral wire pattern. This was done at a time when active growth was taking place and was not disturbed, as far as I can remember, for something like four months afterwards. It was difficult not to look how it was progressing meanwhile but I withstood the temptation because the growth above the sites didn't seem to flag.

I'll post a picture of the present tree to show where the sites were.

Wrap around.

Stymie — Fri, 01 Feb 2008 22:58:14 GMT

I don't think that STEVE will mind if I reproduce his words on the subject.

This is a technique where an entire tree is grafted to deadwood to create an illusion of great age.

First the living tree is stripped down to the cambium layer along one side. Young trees are best for this as they still have small enough caliper to be easily pliable. Then attach the tree to a prepared piece of deadwood following the natural contours as you wrap the living tree around.

To fasten the tree many opttions are available. First you may wrap the entire thing in raffia and allow it to sit for the entire year before checking it's progress. You may also use copper or brass nails or screws to affix the graft. (copper nails are refered to as weatherstripping nails in the US).

And finally you may use cable ties padded by some material that won't rot and harm the bark or graft. In a season or two the living tree should callouse to the old and become one single tree.

Techniques Forum

Kath — Tue, 29 Jan 2008 18:58:12 GMT

still working on this forum folks - give me half an hour :-) will let you know when I'm done:)

Fingers crossed for me, pray that I don't loose everything :D otherwise I will be in big trouble:w00t:

All done as far as I can, hope this is what you wanted chaps, if not just let me know :)

Fertilisation.

Stymie — Wed, 30 Jan 2008 21:35:22 GMT

The major nutrients are obtained by plants from water, air and sunshine. Trees getting these three sources will survive. The daily watering routine in an open planting medium pushes stale air out of the planting medium and draws fresh air in behind the water as it moves downwards. When they have a restricted root run as in a bonsai pot, other foods have to be provided for optimum health and rejuvenation.

The root system uses up the store of food in the small volume available to it more rapidly than if it had an unrestricted volume to reach through in search of its needs. Furthermore, the water which escapes through the drain holes in the pot, takes with it some of the dissolved food. The amount of these nutrients in the medium at re-potting time is mostly used up within a month when the plant/tree is actively growing. The answer is to replace these nutrients after the passage of a month.

The nutrients in highest proportion according to need are; nitrogen (N), phosphates (P) and potash (K).
Manufacturers of proprietary brands of fertilizer are required to list these items in this same order NPK as ingredients. Nitrogen is used by the plant to extend growth of buds leaves and twigs. Phosphates are mainly used up in root growth and potash in the formation of flowers and fruits. Other elements are added in smaller quantities to fertilizers during manufacture. These include calcium, sulphur, iron, zinc, copper, molybdenum , sodium and some other traces, even vitamin 'B'. These vary from brand to brand and are sometimes absent from the cheaper products.

A balanced fertilizer is one which has fairly equal percentages of the main three ingredients NPK and which would be labelled 10:10:10 or 5:5:5. This is what we would mostly use for our potted plants/trees during the main growing period from March to Mid-September. After that, as the cooler weather approaches, growth slows down and hardly any nitrogen is used, also, the current year’s growth needs to be hardened to withstand winter temperatures. This can be achieved by using a formula ratio of 0:10:15 or other low N high K combinations which are often found in tomato fertilizers. When people make up their own fertilizer, they can include the trace elements by adding a pinch of frit which is made for the purpose. Another ingredient which has become popular recently is humate, a residual from the decomposition of organic substances over a long period.

Growers will adopt a fertilizer of their own choice which fits in with their management routine. Pelleted, powder, liquid and cake forms are available.
My own routine is to use a liquid feed at fortnightly intervals from the end of March to late October. Specimens of this type include Phostrogen, Miracle-gro and B and Q powders which are dissolved in water before use. All these products have varied formulae to fit in with the requirements of the paragraph above.

Plants with various degrees of lime intolerance, namely ericas, azaleas and some needle trees are better catered for by an ericaceous formula, which increases the acidity of the planting medium. In other words reduces the ph value.
An off-white powdery residue at the base of a tree’s trunk or on the top, inside edges of the pot are often an indication that the ph has risen and deposits of lime salts are being left behind. These can be avoided by the use of one of the ericaceous fertilizers, chelated iron or even a drink of black tea on occasion.

If leaves display yellow patches in the middle, it may be an indication of a deficiency which can usually be corrected by watering with a solution of epsom salts - 1 teaspoonful to a pint of water usually does it for me. Some people use this on a routine basis at two to three month intervals whether or not it seems to be necessary. It does no harm anyway.

Plants/trees which are kept indoors during the winter continue to grow at a reduced rate and should be fed with a half strength solution at monthly intervals only.

Contra indications.

Do not fertilize medium which has dried out. Water well before application.
Do not fertilize weak or sickly plants/trees which would be unable to utilise it.
Do not fertilize within one month of re-potting or root pruning. (risk of damaging root tips)
Do not fertilize deciduous varieties in Spring until signs of growth are observed.
Do not use a stronger mix than recommended, rather err on the side of higher dilution.

Plant nutrients.

Magnesium.
This is the central constituent of chlorophyll and helps plant enzymes to do their jobs. New chlorophyll cannot be manufactured without it so a shortage causes colour loss on the leaves starting from the insides and spreading outward. Not nice to see yellow in the middle of the leaves, or even white in the case of severe deficiency. Along with calcium, nitrogen and sulphur it is also active in making protein to create cells and allow growth to take place.
Loss of chlorophyll in the middle of leaves, particularly the older ones, is the sign that supplementation is needed. A dilute solution of Epsom salts sprayed onto the leaves is readily absorbed and corrects the shortage very quickly indeed.
As a measure to avoid a shortage, I have added a little to my water two or three times during the growing season. If there are any adverse effects from a surfeit of Magnesium, I have not experienced any.

Nitrogen.
Vital in regeneration and growth, being an essential part of the amino acids, which combine to make proteins, the building blocks. A shortage may be caused by a lack of bacteria which fix it in the medium, excessive leaching by heavy rainfall on very open mediums or failure to fertilize a sterile medium such as Akadama alone. The symptoms of a shortage are; slow or stunted growth, older leaves turning yellow and reddening of the leaf petioles and veins. The normal bonsai procedure of feeding at fortnightly intervals with half strength balanced fertilizer during growth periods is adequate insurance against a deficiency of this essential nutrient.

Phosphorus.
Links together with fats and oils to make cell walls, which are capable of allowing the passage of moisture and nutrients into the interior. It is active in chromosome formation and photosynthesis. It acts like a programme driver in a software package, determining the amount of various foods and minerals to be taken in by the roots to create a correct balance. Root and bud growth, leaf colouration and maturing of tissues are controlled by this wonder constituent. As it helps to make chromosomes, a dearth means that genetic material is not formed so fruiting is stopped, along with the manufacture of new cell walls and growth regulators. Like nitrates, it is absolutely necessary.
A slight bonus from a low level might be better autumn colour.

Calcium.
Puts the ‘bones’ into the twigs and branches in the form of stiffening membranes in the cells. It also helps to control membrane permeability, (Mentioned in the first sentence in phosphorus above). Like a ‘bouncer’ it decides which elements to let into the cells. Even ericaceous, (lime hating), plants need some of this. A complete absence would result in rotting margins in new leaves, no buds and die back of root and shoot growth points.

Sulphur.
Works along with nitrogen etc. by actually linking the amino acids together to make building blocks. Like a lack of nitrogen, insufficient sulphur results in yellowing of leaves but this time the younger ones.

Oxygen.
Being essential to most living things, it is needed round the roots as well as the leaves, hence the open, porous, planting mediums which are so beloved of bonsai. These allow the passage of air behind the draining of water, which also contains oxygen. It also has a structural role and controls the use of energy which allows the roots and leaves to work.

Potassium.
It nips in and out of cells to control the amount of water in the plant tissues, keeping everything turgid and under pressure. Also the action of stomata is regulated by this policeman to balance fluid losses. It controls the operation of enzymes, which make protein although it doesn’t actually do any building itself.

There are other elements, which are only used in tiny amounts, such as boron, chlorine, copper, iron, manganese and molybdenum. I will only bore you with their functions if you specifically ask for it.

I know, I went on a bit with this but I originally wrote it for the club and have reproduced it several times. Sorry!

Lime Sulpher

Stymie — Wed, 30 Jan 2008 00:11:34 GMT

You'll hate me for this or at least your partners will when they smell it.

Make your own if you dare.

To one and a half pints of water (.8Ltr) add two ounces (57Grams) of hydrated garden lime and bring to the boil stirring slowly.

Add three ounces (85 Grams) of Flowers of Sulphur a little at a time and make sure that the solution is stirred continuously and kept at a gentle boil.

After a while the Sulphur will disappear and the liquid will turn yellowish brown.

The Lime takes longer to dissolve, often leaving a residue. When it seems that no more is going to dissolve, allow to cool, drain off the liquid and filter through an old nylon stocking into marked storage bottles, well stoppered.

As the above is taking place a certain sulphuric smell is inevitably given off. If this interferes with domestic harmony you may prefer to buy some.

YOU KNOW WHAT IT’S FOR - DON’T LET THE CHILDREN DRINK IT.
OKAY?

Since writing the above, I have discovered that a drop of detergent in the water will assist in the incorporation of the sulphur. It also helps the subsequent solution to enter the pores of the dead wood. Allow at least three-quarters of an hour to complete the full preparation of the recipe."

Making a Jin

Kath — Tue, 29 Jan 2008 19:57:20 GMT

Advice from Keithmart and Stymie on 1/28/08

Q. Smithy.

If i wanted to make a jin of a live branch of an evergreen like a juniper but in a different shape than the one it is in do i wire it with bark on and some green to keep the cambium growing in order to set the branch or can i strip the branch and wire it bare.

A. Keithmart.

Strip the bark now and roughly carve it. Wrap some aluminium foil around it and heat it with either a candle or blowtorch. This will allow you to bend the jin as you wish, and then finally carve it to a final shape. Make sure you do not heat the live bark.

Q. Smithy.

So are you saying that when its heated it can be bent and then when it cools it will stay in new place.

A. Keithmart.

Exactly.

Stymie.

A completely dry dead branch can be re-positioned in the same way.

I first wrap it with wet tissue (toilet roll is okay) then wrap the foil around the outside. The heat makes the moisture in the tissue boil and steam. Its almost like softening the wood in a pressure cooker. Hold the branch in place with pliers, its hot. When cooled down the branch is fixed in the new shape. Magic!.

Q. Smithy

That is magic. I will be trying that out some time. I guess that is how some of these junipers with amazing deadwood are made.

Has anyone got an example of one they have done?

A photographic guide to repotting.

Kath — Tue, 29 Jan 2008 19:21:12 GMT

Posted by Jimothy on 1/23/2008

For future reference, here's my step-by-step guide to how to repot a tree:

The tree in question is a larch, collected from a friend's plantation about 18 months ago, which has been growing a pot in the stoney clay soil of the site since then, hence the early repot this year into more suitable soil. The basic sequence would apply in exactly the same way to any other tree (eg. nursery stock or an established bonsai, except in the latter case you may well be re-using the same pot).

Step 1: Choose a working space, collect together tree/s to be repotted and new pot/s:

[IMG]http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg94/jimothy78/bonsai/2007_0104005.jpg[/IMG]

Step 2: Prepare pot by making "butterfly" of stiff wire, attaching thinner wires to this and feeding them up through the hole in the base of the pot, leaving the "butterfly" on the underside:

[IMG]http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg94/jimothy78/bonsai/2007_0104022.jpg[/IMG]

Step 3:
Spread out thin wires and use sphagnum moss or gauze to cover hole to prevent soil mix falling through:

[IMG]http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg94/jimothy78/bonsai/2007_0104023.jpg[/IMG]

Step 4:
Prepare the soil ingredients. First, seive each ingredient with a fine seive to remove dust and fine particles:

[IMG]http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg94/jimothy78/bonsai/2007_0104007.jpg[/IMG]

After:
[IMG]http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg94/jimothy78/bonsai/2007_0104008.jpg[/IMG]

Step 5:
Measure out the ingredients (after sifting) as appropriate for you own mix. I'm using equal parts organic matter, horticultural grit and cat litter. The organic matter is 50% pine bark, 50% leafmould:

[IMG]http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg94/jimothy78/bonsai/2007_0104009.jpg[/IMG]

Step 6:
Mix the soil ingredients together, note how coarse and separate the particles of my mix are; you shouldn't be able to mould your mix into balls when wet. If you can, you didn't sieve it well enough - do it again.

[IMG]http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg94/jimothy78/bonsai/2007_0104015.jpg[/IMG]

Step 7:
Remove the tree from its pot and shake or (my preferred method) wash the old soil from the roots:

[IMG]http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg94/jimothy78/bonsai/2007_0104019.jpg[/IMG]

Step 8:
Trim overlong or overthick roots, but ensure you leave enough fine "feeder" roots to support the topgrowth of the tree (compare this image to the last to see how much I've taken off):

[IMG]http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg94/jimothy78/bonsai/2007_0104020.jpg[/IMG]

Step 9:
Place a thin layer of soil mix in the base of the new pot and arrange the tree. Use the wires to secure the tree in place so it can't move about:

[IMG]http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg94/jimothy78/bonsai/2007_0104024.jpg[/IMG]

Step 10:
Finally, fill the pot with the rest of the soil mix, making sure the space underneath the tree's roots is not empty, then water in well and add moss if you like. TA DA!

[IMG]http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg94/jimothy78/bonsai/2007_0104027.jpg[/IMG]