Bonsai Garden Forums / BONSAI / Bonsai Techniques / Fertilisation. / Latest Posts

Bonsai Garden Forums / BONSAI / Bonsai Techniques / Fertilisation. / Latest PostsInstantForum.NET v4.1.4Bonsai Garden Forumshttp://forums.bonsaigarden.net/forums@instantasp.co.ukTue, 06 Jan 2009 20:05:45 GMT20RE: Fertilisation.http://forums.bonsaigarden.net/Topic442-14-1.aspxThanks for the useful information, Stymie. :)Thu, 31 Jan 2008 17:00:16 GMTTuppenceFertilisation.http://forums.bonsaigarden.net/Topic442-14-1.aspxThe major nutrients are obtained by plants from water, air and sunshine. Trees getting these three sources will survive. The daily watering routine in an open planting medium pushes stale air out of the planting medium and draws fresh air in behind the water as it moves downwards. When they have a restricted root run as in a bonsai pot, other foods have to be provided for optimum health and rejuvenation. The root system uses up the store of food in the small volume available to it more rapidly than if it had an unrestricted volume to reach through in search of its needs. Furthermore, the water which escapes through the drain holes in the pot, takes with it some of the dissolved food. The amount of these nutrients in the medium at re-potting time is mostly used up within a month when the plant/tree is actively growing. The answer is to replace these nutrients after the passage of a month. The nutrients in highest proportion according to need are; nitrogen (N), phosphates (P) and potash (K). Manufacturers of proprietary brands of fertilizer are required to list these items in this same order NPK as ingredients. Nitrogen is used by the plant to extend growth of buds leaves and twigs. Phosphates are mainly used up in root growth and potash in the formation of flowers and fruits. Other elements are added in smaller quantities to fertilizers during manufacture. These include calcium, sulphur, iron, zinc, copper, molybdenum , sodium and some other traces, even vitamin 'B'. These vary from brand to brand and are sometimes absent from the cheaper products. A balanced fertilizer is one which has fairly equal percentages of the main three ingredients NPK and which would be labelled 10:10:10 or 5:5:5. This is what we would mostly use for our potted plants/trees during the main growing period from March to Mid-September. After that, as the cooler weather approaches, growth slows down and hardly any nitrogen is used, also, the current year’s growth needs to be hardened to withstand winter temperatures. This can be achieved by using a formula ratio of 0:10:15 or other low N high K combinations which are often found in tomato fertilizers. When people make up their own fertilizer, they can include the trace elements by adding a pinch of frit which is made for the purpose. Another ingredient which has become popular recently is humate, a residual from the decomposition of organic substances over a long period. Growers will adopt a fertilizer of their own choice which fits in with their management routine. Pelleted, powder, liquid and cake forms are available. My own routine is to use a liquid feed at fortnightly intervals from the end of March to late October. Specimens of this type include Phostrogen, Miracle-gro and B and Q powders which are dissolved in water before use. All these products have varied formulae to fit in with the requirements of the paragraph above. Plants with various degrees of lime intolerance, namely ericas, azaleas and some needle trees are better catered for by an ericaceous formula, which increases the acidity of the planting medium. In other words reduces the ph value. An off-white powdery residue at the base of a tree’s trunk or on the top, inside edges of the pot are often an indication that the ph has risen and deposits of lime salts are being left behind. These can be avoided by the use of one of the ericaceous fertilizers, chelated iron or even a drink of black tea on occasion. If leaves display yellow patches in the middle, it may be an indication of a deficiency which can usually be corrected by watering with a solution of epsom salts - 1 teaspoonful to a pint of water usually does it for me. Some people use this on a routine basis at two to three month intervals whether or not it seems to be necessary. It does no harm anyway. Plants/trees which are kept indoors during the winter continue to grow at a reduced rate and should be fed with a half strength solution at monthly intervals only. Contra indications. Do not fertilize medium which has dried out. Water well before application. Do not fertilize weak or sickly plants/trees which would be unable to utilise it. Do not fertilize within one month of re-potting or root pruning. (risk of damaging root tips) Do not fertilize deciduous varieties in Spring until signs of growth are observed. Do not use a stronger mix than recommended, rather err on the side of higher dilution. Plant nutrients. Magnesium. This is the central constituent of chlorophyll and helps plant enzymes to do their jobs. New chlorophyll cannot be manufactured without it so a shortage causes colour loss on the leaves starting from the insides and spreading outward. Not nice to see yellow in the middle of the leaves, or even white in the case of severe deficiency. Along with calcium, nitrogen and sulphur it is also active in making protein to create cells and allow growth to take place. Loss of chlorophyll in the middle of leaves, particularly the older ones, is the sign that supplementation is needed. A dilute solution of Epsom salts sprayed onto the leaves is readily absorbed and corrects the shortage very quickly indeed. As a measure to avoid a shortage, I have added a little to my water two or three times during the growing season. If there are any adverse effects from<SPAN style=